Monday, October 28, 2013
Sunday, June 30, 2013
Hiking plans
After contemplating doing this hike for a couple of years now, I finally have a real plan to do it. My cousin who I haven't seen in quite a few years I have just discovered is also into hiking, so we decided to go do this hike in October. Originally we were talking end of July, but she couldn't get leave, which was ok with me because I was imagining horribly cold weather and storms, so my next available 4 day weekend is in the middle of October. So she also got leave and we are both going to go together. Drive down from Tauranga Saturday morning and start at lunchtime, hopefully start with Panekire then take 3 or 4 days to go around. After we finish (hopefully tuesday lunchtime) I really want to do a couple of the shorter walks - Lou's lookout or Onepoto Caves or the Hinerau Walk, or else go kayaking on the lake. Wednesday morning I want to hire a dinghy and walk up to Lake Waireti - a smaller lake an hour from the DOC office, get back at lunchtime and drive home that afternoon. Then back to work Thursday for my boss' 2nd to last day before he retires after 40 years working for the company.
My only concern at the moment is fitness - I know I have a long way to go to improve my fitness to the level that I need to before I can finish the other walks.
I have 2 1/2wks off work in November which I'm thinking of using to do the Rakiura, Kepler and Heaphy tracks, then I have a 4 day weekend at the end of December I want to use for the Tongariro Northern Circuit and I have booked a weeks leave in January so my friend and I can go do the Whanganui (Guided) river journey. I'm really looking forward to all these walks. Its good motivation for me.
Saturday, June 22, 2013
My next goal
Having done the Routeburn and Milford Tracks, I am now exceedingly jealous of the lucky 4 "Great Walkers" a group of people who won the trip of a lifetime to come to NZ and do all 9 great walks over a period of 9 weeks (as well as some other really awesome in between day trips and kayaking trips and relaxation). I think it would be so amazing to do them all as well. So I have 3 done, and 6 to go.
I have finally finished finalizing the dates for my next Great Walk, which will be at the southern end of the Urewerea Rainforest, around Lake Waikaremoana. Also hoping to do a half day trip up to enjoy a smaller Lake Waireti and go canoeing up there. My cousin has generously volunteered to go with me in the middle of October, so we can keep each other company, and hopefully not be inundated by too many other people.
I have also booked 2 and a half weeks leave at the end of November/December as I really want to go to the South Island and attempt at least 1 or 2 of my remaining walks, preferably Rakiura on Stewart Island and the Kepler Track next to Lake Te Anau. I have a vaguely disquieting feeling in the back of my mind that I should change my plans, but I don't know what I would replace them with. I also want to do the Tongariro Northern Circuit and the Whanganui River Journey with another friend sometime over the summer. At least thats my plan, will see how it all pans out.
Sunday, May 5, 2013
Gisborne Scenery
On my sightseeing trip to Gisborne earlier this year, I got to see quite a few things I hadn't noticed on previous trips, because those were mostly about nostalgia and memories for my Mum and aunty who grew up there. This trip I got to go do all the touristy things that I had wanted to do for ages.
Firstly Rere Falls, a 5m high long waterfall out not far from Eastwoodhill Arboretum.
Secondly the not-Captain-Cook statue on Kaiti Hill (noone is quite sure who it is, everyone just agrees that it doesn't actually look like Captain Cook).
Thirdly Spongey Bay, early morning with the sunrise coming up behind.
Fourthly the Botanic Gardens, which were small, but quite lovely, and next to a river which I also really liked.
And also a lovely little waterfall about a 20min walk from a childrens playground at Waihirere Domain off Back Ormond Road.
And finally, a photo of the statue of Young Nick, a boy onboard Capt Cooks ship, who was apparently the first to see land when arriving in NZ, and what I think is a replica of Capt Cooks ship, the Endeavour.
East Coast Sunrise
One time when I was younger, I decided I wanted to go see the sunrise out at Raglan. I took my sister and one of my friends with me. At no point during our journey did either of them mention to me the futility of attempting to view the sunrise, from a west coast beach of New Zealand. We got there and there was fog, and trees, and bushes in the way, and all I got for my efforts was a tiny sliver of sunlight bursting through the narrow gap between the landscape and the clouds.
A few years later for our New Years 2000 celebrations, we decided to go to Long Bay beach on the east coast near Auckland to try and see the sunrise, after staying up all night. There were a lot of people on the beach at 5am that morning, unfortunately we were all disappointed due to low cloud.
This year, I decided to try one last attempt at seeing the sunrise in the east, by heading out to Gisborne "First to see the light." I got up at 5am one morning and drove out to Wainui beach (as Gisborne actually faces South east, not east) and sat there for an hour. I just marvelled at the view, the changes colours of the sky and sea as the colours on the horizon changed gradually for about half an hour before the edge of the sun finally glimmered over the furthest point of the ocean. It was one of the most marvellous things I've ever experienced, and aside from one surfer and one kayaker who came along later, I had the whole wonderful beach to myself. It was amazing, I loved it. Then I went sightseeing around the other bays nearby - Spongey bay included, where the original lookout that used to be there had vanished into the ocean.
Silica Rapids
I originally intended to walk from Whakapapa to Mangatepo and back for a day trip, but I changed my mind when I decided to head to Napier directly after my walk. I thought the Silica Rapids sounded like an interesting thing to see, and it was only about a 2hr return walk. So I headed up the road to go have a look.
It was a little bit strange, because I only saw one other person the whole time I was walking, whereas the day before I'd see dozens of people on the track. Obviously just not as popular a walk. The rapids weren't really what I expected, but they were still worth having a look at. I thought the yellow green colour around them was a bit strange though.
On my way back out I stopped to have another look at a small waterfall off to the right on the main road out from Whakapapa, Tawhai Falls. The last time I'd been there it had been pouring, so I never got a proper look. This time I managed to scramble over some rocks, to get a lot closer to the base of the falls.
Tama Lakes
While I was on a break, I thought it would be good to go do a couple of day trips around Tongariro, before the weather turned and it wasn't feasible anymore. The lady at the visitors centre said that snow was forecast for later in the week (around easter) so I thought I better do the longer walk first and leave a shorter one for the next day. I decided to go see the Taranaki Falls, and then continue on to the Tama Lakes, which was about a 5-6hr return trip.
The Taranaki Falls only took an hour to get to, and they were stunning. If I'd had someone with me I would've gone and stood behind or next to the falls so I could get a photo, but as it was I just got one at a distance. There was also a lovely smallish waterfall next to a bridge on the track to the waterfall.
After that I continued on to Tama Lakes. There was fog obscuring Mt Ruapehu on my right, but I could see most of Ngaruahoe to my left. It was pretty cold, and the wind started picking up the closer I got. Everytime I passed Northern circuit trampers I would ask them how long to Tama Lakes, and they would usually ask how much further to Whakapapa, so it was a mutually beneficial exchange.
I got to the bottom Tama lake, about 10mins off the turnoff and took some photos. After that you had to climb up a narrow ridge following some poles around to the second lake. I wasn't sure i wanted to go any further so I asked some german tourists heading back down if it was worth it. "Yes, its fantastic, absolutely" one replied, so I kept going, at which point the wind really picked up. I got down on my knees and huddled behind a big boulder and considered whether I should go on or not, as I was starting to get cold and didn't want hypothermia.
Then I figured, well if I've come all this way, I may as well keep going, so I headed up about 20 minutes and saw the Upper Tama Lake down to my left, which made my day, the water was an incredible colour blue, so I sat down, appreciated the view and had my lunch there.
Then I headed back. It seemed a lot faster going back, I think it was a bit more downhill, I was glad to see my car and the warm aircon as I headed back to my friends for a hot shower.
Sightseeing in Hastings
While I was in Hawkes Bay visiting my sister, there were a couple of places I wanted to visit. The Ahuriri estuary is in Napier, near Pandora, about a one hour circuit, slightly longer with the push chair. We got talking about healthy food, and my 5yr old nephew comes out with "Mummy you need to eat healthy food, so that when you feed baby he will be healthy too and won't get sick anymore." I offered her an apple but she wouldn't take it, and headed off. So I gave it to her 5yr old and said, "Here this is healthy food, go give it to Mummy," so he took off down the track calling out, "Mummy! You need to eat this apple!"
Another day we went to the Te Ana and Tangoio Falls (about 20 mins apart on the same track, about 30 minutes north of Bayview). I dragged my sister to both places, which was nice, as our nephews got to see everything as well. We had to drag, lift and push the stroller to the base of Te Ana falls, a lady heading out when we arrived had warned us the second part was quite steep and muddy, so Kat didn't even attempt the second one, she just headed back to the car.
It was good that she didn't coz the mud was worse than I expected and I nearly slipped over a couple of times. Plus there were fallen tree trunks and vines hanging down in places over the trail. When I arrived at the lookout I was quite disappointed that that was the closest I could actually get to the falls - you could only see them looking down at them about 80m away. At least the trip back to the car was downhill and therefore a lot faster.
The other waterfall I got to see was on the drive between Taupo and Hastings. It was signposted as "Scenic lookout" or something like that, but when I slowed down for a closer look at the sign, I saw a tiny sign above it that said Waitonga Falls, which you wouldn't see if you were hurtling past at 100km/h. They were lovely, even though you could only see them from a distance.
Wednesday, March 20, 2013
Walking the Milford Track
I am so glad I did the 4 day Milford Track!! I felt really blessed and protected and helped, especially having Elsie there. When I fasted for the hike beforehand, I prayed the weather would be good for Day 3, Mckinnon Pass day (over the mountain). My prayer was answered! It rained over half of Day 2, the night of Day 3 and almost all of Day 4, but Day 3 shone bright and clear. Even the sight of the fog rolling off the mountains and being inside the clouds was a marvellous and awe inspiring thing to see. For me, every day was different. Day 1 was pure excitement and anticipation. I was excited to get on the bus and the boat and get to Glade Wharf and get started on this adventure. Everything was interesting and hopeful. Ranger Petes guided nature walk was cool and informative, it didn’t feel like an hour and a half lecture, the time just flew by. Some of what he talked about I already knew, but other things were a revelation, like manuka and ti tree being the same tree. It felt like the walk stretched forever in front of me into the future – like it would never end.
Day 2 was a bit different. It felt so LOOOOONG. I’m not sure if it was because Michelle at Kiwi Discovery had said it was long, but it just seemed to go on forever, and not in a good way. I felt slow and ploddish as everyone seemed to pass me. The rain drained my spirits and my energy. I wore my coat but then felt hot and sweaty and lethargic. I just wanted water all the time but I wasn’t very hungry. I liked Hirere Falls but it was too far to get a decent picture, and there wasn’t all that much to see as the fog closed in. Even the sign that said “First view of Mckinnon Pass” disappointed me, as all we could see were murky outlines in the distance. Then the last hour or two when it started to climb completely wore me out – with the rain and everything else. When we got to the hut I was tired, weary and desperate to wash my face. When we found out the pump to the toilets was broken (3rd one in a few days), the bathroom was closed, and we would all (40 of us) have to share the small gross dark long drop toilet I was so gutted and disappointed. I had a really early dinner that night to warm and cheer me up. Plus somebody had started a fire which was quite heartening. Also we had really lovely room mates, some from Hamilton, who I got chatting to about other things they’d done and that made me feel better. My spirits recovered overnight. I got up in the middle of the darkness to get changed into clean clothes and put cream on some insect bites and felt way better.
Day 3 for me was hard, but it was also the best day ever! It was so incredible. Despite my panting, gasping weariness as I ascended towards McKinnon Pass, I would feel rejuvenated every time I lifted my eyes from my feet and gazed around me at the ethereal grandeur of the mountains and glacier carved valleys I could glimpse around me. It all served to cheer me no end. Even counting the 11 switchbacks plus a few that didn’t count after number 2 (odd numbers turned right, even to the left) it all made me feel like I was making progress towards my goal (albeit slowly) When I got to #11 and followed it up and glimpsed the Mckinnon Memorial which I’d seen pictures and videos of, I was so blown away and happy. I put my pack down and literally floated over to the cliff where Heather kindly warned me back coz I think I was running (I felt so free after having hauled all that weight up the side of the mountain). The fog kept coming and going so I decided to wait for it to clear, I didn’t want to leave that spot without capturing it on film. 20 minutes later it cleared for exactly 5 minutes while I snapped away the distant looking mountains, the mist enshrouded valleys, the waterfalls, the snow covered peaks off to the right and the lake behind. The path then climbed 100 more metres to Mackinnon Pass, where I took a few more photos of Clinton Valley, looking back where we’d come from. It was staggering this view I had seen in photos and dreamed of but never really believed it could be more beautiful and amazing in real life – but it was! So much greenery, trees, ribbons of water shimmering, 2 sets of mountains on either side vanishing into the distance. Wow.
We stopped for a hot drink at the shelter then I began my descent, where I rolled my ankle by misjudging a rock which flipped out from under me. Put a brace on which helped, then slipped and fell backwards onto my pack. Later rolled the other ankle – luckily didn’t break it, which I was greatly relieved about. I was very careful where I stepped after that. Coming down the Arthur River at one point I saw waterfall after waterfall after waterfall, all lovely, all shaped differently, some with lookouts, others which I tried to get better looks at through the trees, some with marvellous teal blue pools underneath, just going down and down and down the mountain. So much loveliness in one place – superb! Got to the Sutherland falls turnoff, but I knew the track was closed, so headed to Dumpling Hut. 1 hour bone weary, feeling gross, sweaty, smelly, but elated! The first night I’d dived into the Clinton Rivers iciness, remembering a comment on Great Walker Joel’s blog, “You will never regret diving into a cold mountain stream. But you might regret not diving in.” So when I saw there was also a swimming hole at this hut, I just had to get changed and get in. The water was icy cold but I put my head under 3x and then the sandflies left me alone. I froze but I felt so so clean and good.
Day 4 was a bit of a contradiction. I felt a bit panicked because of my slowness and urgency to get to the end by 2pm, but I also felt a strong desire to absorb every moment, because all too soon it would be over. I just wanted to soak it all in, because when would I ever have the chance to come here again?
I felt rushed, but I also felt more aware of what was going on around me. The rain made everything smell more fresh and vivid, and having some clean dry clothes was a small thing, but it made me feel on top of the world. Also, Elsie had that morning bestowed upon me her spare pink bandana, which made all the perspiration from my forehead stop falling into my eyes. I counted landmarks in my head and kept an eye on my watch, but I glanced around me on a regular basis. I saw Paradise ducks, trout, weak and small robins, I heard lots of different trilling, squawking and harmonising birdsong, even though I couldn’t often see the birds who were making such lovely music. Mackay falls looked a lot bigger than I had thought from the pictures of it. Bell Rock was an experience by itself. Giant Gate Falls was incredible, and if I’d had time I’d have stayed there for a swim. Lake Ada looked lovely from above, but I didn’t stop as time was growing short.
My eyelid got stung by an insect that made it all swell up, so I couldn’t see so well out of it. When we got to the end shelter at 1:25pm and I heard Elsie cheer ahead of me I was so relieved and elated, and sad at the same time. I was glad at what I’d experienced, but sad it was coming to a close. I put on my last warm dry clothes and came out, everyone had vanished. I hurried to the boat wharf, snapping a few pictures of the rock cairn 33.5miles marker on the way.
I was the last to board before we headed off early to Milford Sound. Some nice people offered me their seat, but I just wanted to see outside. Mitre Peak was murky, obscured by mist unfortunately. I thought of my friend who had climbed it, and wondered what on earth he was thinking. Because it was raining, glorious waterfalls were streaming down the faces of the hard granite rock, straight down into the water. Not just a few – hundreds. As we boarded the bus to ascend to Homer Tunnel I couldn’t help craning my neck every which way to try and see them all – cascades of them everywhere. I had heard Milford Sound was beautiful in the rain but this was spectacular. Out of this world. Magic. I wished I had my own car so I could stop and take photos of it, but more especially when we came out of the Homer Tunnel and we were treated to a glorious awe inspiring view. Mountains on either side of us, some with snow, some without. I didn’t try to photograph it, I just tried to engrave it into my memory. On the way back to Te Anau, Elsie and I discussed the impossibility of finding words to express to our family and friends exactly what we had experienced – the sights, the sounds, the greenery, the rivers, mountains and trees. Feeling and experiencing something in person, is not the same as reading and dreaming about it in your mind.
Tuesday, March 12, 2013
Queenstown & Lake Wakatipu
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